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In the kitchen --
Keeping up with the Joneses
Originally published November 04, 2009


By Susan Guynn
News-Post Staff

In the kitchen --
Photo by Skip Lawrence


Chef David Jones Sr., right, and son, David Jones Jr., at the "New" Lohr's Family Restaurant, located at 911 E. Patrick St., Frederick.
Chef David Jones Sr. is as much at home in the kitchen as he is anywhere.

Jones, 54, is executive chef at the "New" Lohr's Family Restaurant at 911 E. Patrick St. in Frederick , which he co-owns with his wife, Rayann Jones. His son, David Jones Jr., is the certified cook and general manager, or as Jones Jr. says, "his right-hand man."

Running a restaurant that's open seven days a week is a major commitment of time and resources, and a challenge in today's economy, Jones Sr. said. But challenge is not new to him.

He peeled his first potatoes when he was about 5, back in Charlotte, N.C., where his mother and grandmother were banquet waitresses. While they worked, he stayed in the kitchen peeling vegetables.

"It was just the way it was," Jones Sr. said. His mother's mental state was impacted from a motorcycle accident and his grandmother cared for them both. When he was a teen, his grandmother died and his strict step-grandfather insisted Jones conform to his ways or move on.

So at age 15 he moved out, got an apartment and a job at a local pancake house using a fake ID. "I worked from 11 to 7, went to school from 7 to 3 and from 3 to 11 I studied," Jones Sr. said. "I put myself through school and the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park (N.Y.)."

After receiving his certification from CIA, he landed jobs in Harrisburg and Camp Hill, Pa., before he was offered the executive chef positions at Nick's Airport Inn, at the age of 23, and 10 years later at the Venice Inn in Hagerstown.

When the Venice was sold, Jones Sr. became executive chef at The Comus Inn for about three years before it closed. (It has since reopened as The Comus Inn at Sugarloaf Mountain in Dickerson.) Jones Jr. also worked in the salad room.

From there, Jones Sr. had his own restaurant in Hagerstown, called the Steak Out. It closed in 2001. Father and son then worked at an upper-scale Italian restaurant there.

A year later, life took a tough turn.

"Alcoholism seems to follow people in this type of environment," Jones Sr. said. "I had been clean and sober from about '97 to 2002." He checked himself in to a rehab facility and later came to live at a halfway house in Frederick .

"(David Jr.) and I hadn't had too much contact because of it," Jones Sr. said. As a certified cook, his son continued to work in the food service field.

Jones Sr. took a job as breakfast cook at Lohr's Restaurant and the Village Restaurant (now closed) for $7 an hour, he said. The restaurants were owned by the Lohr family.

"When David (Jr.) saw how serious I was" their relationship was rekindled, Jones Sr. said, and they both worked at the local restaurants.

Jones Sr. learned the ins and outs of operating Lohr's so when the business went up for sale, he and his then new wife bought it. About a year ago, they purchased the building, "through diligence and hard work," he said. The restaurant has been renovated.

The Joneses kept the Lohr's name and added "new" to it. As the oldest family-owned restaurant in Frederick , said Jones Sr., it made business sense to keep the established name.

Jones Sr. continues the home-cooking comfort-food menu of his predecessor. "We try to keep our prices reasonable, especially in these economic times. You have to do your homework," he said. "Where else can you get a 12-ounce choice New York strip steak for $9.99?"

Crab cakes and steak are two of the "New" Lohr's signature foods, said Jones Sr.

But every day finds a daily lunch and dinner special that seem to have their own following.

Jones Sr. said at 6 a.m., when the restaurant opens for breakfast (7 a.m. on Sunday), about 20 regulars are outside waiting to take their favorite seat in the dining room or at the counter. The breakfast sausage is a signature recipe developed by Jones Sr. and Shuff's Meat Market near Thurmont .

"It's a little spicy with a touch of sage," Jones Sr. said.

Monday's lunch special is slippery pot-pie, prepared by Jones Jr., using turkey, chicken, beef or ham. "It takes about two good hours to make, but it's a simple process," he said.

Tuesdays are either meat loaf or roast pork; Wednesdays spaghetti and meat sauce or a half-pound of steamed shrimp; Thursdays are Swiss steak or roast turkey; and Fridays feature haddock or broiled salmon cakes.

Weeknight specials include crab -- cakes, imperial or au gratin, broasted chicken ("chicken fried under pressure making it crispy and moist"), pasta, roast turkey, steak or fish. Sunday features breakfast all day.

Jones Sr. says he tries to use local produce when he can and it's cost-effective.

The Joneses have greatly expanded the catering side of the business, too, serving corporate and private events, service organization meetings, business open houses and weddings up to 400 people.

"I have a vast background in catering," Jones Sr. said, noting he has catered private parties for the Hyatts in Potomac and private affairs for former governors Parris Glendening and William Donald Schaefer.

"It can be hectic," Jones Sr. said. He typically works 10 to 12 hours every day -- even his day off when he often meets with catering clients. "Sometimes I'm in the kitchen all day."

Every Christmas day, the "New" Lohr's is open from 11 a.m to 2 p.m. to serve a turkey dinner to anyone who comes by. Last year, he said, that was about 600 people.

It's his way of giving back to the community.

"When I came to Frederick I didn't have anything for the second time in my life," Jones Sr. said. "I'm determined to see that doesn't happen to me again.

"I wouldn't have any of this if it were not for Rayann, my wife, David, my son, and the grace of God."

-- -- --

www.lohrsonline.com

301-663-6511



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