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Photo by Sam Yu
The Sunday brunch at the Bavarian Inn includes many German main course selections. Examples on this plate include lamb with green beans and pearl onions, sauerbratin, red cabbage and baby dumplings, pork loin, meatloaf and ribeye roast. |
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SHEPHERDSTOWN, W.Va. -- Driving over the bridge into town, your first clue that a bit of Bavaria has taken root and flourishes here are the alpine-style chalets clinging to the cliff along the Potomac. It's almost as if you've crossed an ocean rather than a river.The first right brings you to the Bavarian Inn, which has won national recognition for its European elegance and authentic cuisine. As we drove onto the grounds of the 12-acre estate, the impressive Greystone Mansion captured our attention. Built in 1930 as a private residence, it was converted in 1962 to a country inn. Extensive renovations were completed in 1977 when the Asam family purchased the property. A native born Bavarian from Munich, Erwin Asam and his wife Yvonne Carol have built a prestigious reputation -- including a AAA Four Diamond Award. Sons Christian and David joined the family business, and in 2006, Chef Wolfgang Vomend, a native of Germany, took the helm as executive chef. The mansion offers three dining areas and also a European rathskeller pub. The Hunt Room features stone walls, a massive fireplace, antler chandeliers and wild game trophies on the walls; in contrast, The Library offers a softer setting with upholstered furnishing and muted tones; and the Potomac Room showcases spectacular views of the river from large windows. For Sunday brunch, we were seated in the large and expansive Potomac Room. Decorated with understated elegance, brocade carpets and floral upholstered chairs, tables dressed in fine linen and crystal, the room is both opulent yet airy. Wait staff soon arrived at our table and served us fresh-squeezed orange juice. Instead of coffee we requested iced tea. We soon made our way into the adjancet Hunt Room where the impressive buffet encompassed some half a dozen stations. The selection of courses is quite extensive. Omelets with a variety of fresh fillings are available, as well as waffles, pancakes, French toast, housemade corned beef hash, potatoes, scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage, and of course, traditional Eggs Benedict. Not to give breakfast short shift, my husband began with a ham and cheese omelet, which nearly filled his plate. Quality ingredients are key here. I do think I enjoyed the best bacon of my life here -- but then again, German food is nothing if not about the pig -- sausage and loins and what have you. Aside from the bacon -- and the fantastic peel and eat shrimp, I sought out German offerings like the acclaimed sauerbraten and the marinated beef with ginger and spices -- extra delicious with the potato dumplings. The beef was fork tender and flavored to perfection. The carving station also offered excellent prime rib with horseradish and grainy mustard sauces. I tried the housemade German meatloaf, but confess it must be an acquired taste ... more pressed and loaf-like -- not your ground beef and gravy concoction that Americans expect. But I was there to throw my American expectations to the wind and give my tastebuds a European vacation, so I tried the roasted lamb with fragrant green beans and pearl onions, and the juniper scented pork loin, the turkey and chicken roulade with coconut tumeric sauce. We left our vegetarian daughter at home, but she would have enjoyed the cheese selections, lasagna. She loves seafood and the inn also offers smoked and roasted salmon dishes as well. For the children, a small children's table offered a basket of German pretzels, pizza and more kid-friendly offerings. I would have liked to try the pretzels, but I could not tear myself away from the bread board. The assortment of authentic fresh loaves was irristible. On the lighter side, the cucumber salad was refreshing and an assortment of vegetable crudite and whole and sliced fresh fruits balanced the heavy German fare. For dessert, we enjoyed mini petit fours, chocolates and a rich, custardy baked flan. There was more we could not try, but there are other Sundays and Shepherdstown is really a short drive for such an elegant taste of Bavaria. In Good Taste reports on an unannounced dining experience and is not meant to be a critical review.
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