Photo by Graham Cullen Illustration by Candace Lookingbill

Both types of chocolate eaters close their eyes and that's the moment Omstead said chocolate works its magic.

"The best part about watching someone eat chocolate is when they bite in and close their eyes. In that second they are transporting themselves someplace else," said Olmstead, who makes it his business to really know how to eat chocolate. Omstead owns The Perfect Truffle in Everedy Square in Frederick.

As Valentine's Day fast approaches, many sweethearts turn to the cocoa confection to work its magic. While to many chocolate is good for the soul, it also has its merits in health, too.

Chocolate may not rank up there with broccoli, green beans and fish in the food pyramid, however it does have some redeeming health qualities.

Marylou Stone, dietician for the Frederick County Health Department, said chocolate contains antioxidants called flavanoids. Antioxidants help reduce free radicals, a compound that can cause damage to cells and DNA. The higher the concentration of cocoa in the chocolate, the more flavanoids the chocolate contains. Also, some preliminary studies have suggested that these flavanoids can help reduce plaque build-up in the arteries, thereby improving cardiovascular health.

Some small and preliminary studies show some effect on improving blood pressure and decreasing the effect of sugar on the teeth. But several long-term and larger studies need to be conducted to duplicate these findings before they can be proven, Stone said.

When it comes to picking a chocolate, it seems the darker the better.

"Dark chocolate is healthier," Stone said. It has a higher concentration of cocoa than milk chocolate, which means it has a higher ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbency Capacity).

Dark chocolate even ranks higher in ORAC than blueberries and even walnuts.

White chocolate is made of cocoa butter, milk and sugar. Specific U.S. standards require white chocolate to be 20 percent cocoa butter (by weight), 14 percent total milk solids, 3.5 percent milk fat and less than 55 percent sugar or other sweeteners. It does not contain cocoa solids, so it does not have the same benefits as dark chocolate, Stone said.

Even the form chocolate takes makes a difference. While chocolate syrup contains cocoa it also has corn syrup, sugar and flavorings, such as vanilla extract. The powdered form of hot chocolate is usually higher in the cocoa concentration.

"But reading the label is very important," Stone said. "How much sugar has been added to the powdered form? Are you going to top that with a marshmallow or whipped cream? Are you going to make it up with water, skim milk or whole milk? All these additives add more calories."

Reading the label is important when choosing a Valentine's Day treat, but also knowing your sweetheart's taste will make you a champ or a chump.

Olmstead is offering a fancy truffle called Red Hot Love this season. This heart-shaped truffle is coated with a gold sparking luster dust to catch the light and filled with a spiced cinnamon ganache center.

"It takes your breath away a little," he said, adding that a champagne truffle is also a special Valentine's day offering.

Zoe Tsoukatos, owner of Zoe's Chocolate on North Market Street, also said real chocolate lovers enjoy the taste of the cocoa bean and opt for the dark chocolate treats.

"It all depends on your palette," she said. Her store is offering a "Man Sale" from 7 to 9 p.m. on Wednesday, where special chocolate experts will help men find the perfect gift.

"Chocolate and date night go hand in hand. You can pick a certain chocolate to go with a special bottle of wine or fruits to go with it," she said.

Olmstead said eating chocolate should be like sampling a fine wine.

"You should first look at it and notice the shapes and colors and be awed by their beauty. Eat it with your eyes. Then read the description and look at the image and have a little fantasy about it," Olmstead said. "Take a half of a bite of it. The richness of good chocolate makes people go 'Ahhhh' and makes everything good for a few minutes."