Photo by Courtesy Photo Chef Michael Voltaggio poses for a portrait showing his ink. tattoo at ink., a new restaurant in Los Angeles.

LOS ANGELES -- Entering celebrated Chef Michael Voltaggio's flagship restaurant, ink., one cannot help feel as if you are interrupting a conductor who is privately guiding his orchestra through its greatest concerto. With movements that are quick and decisive, it's no wonder three words come to mind to describe Voltaggio: focused, passionate and intense.

It's this focus, this passion and this intensity in the kitchen that ultimately reveals itself in the meals served to patrons in the main dining area of ink.

Tucked away in the corner of a plain brick building on famed Melrose Avenue, ink. opened in September in the heart of West Hollywood. One of LA's newest eateries, ink. boasts an industrial interior with a minimalist vibe and has quickly become a must-stop for foodies and "Top Chef" enthusiasts.

When comparing ink.'s menus from one week to the next, it can be noted that a limited amount of items are part of his regular repertoire. Voltaggio prefers changing it weekly. The menu is peppered with interesting options that ring of familiar fare, yet with a culinary twist.

A dish such as the Jidori chicken and waffles with hot sauce and served with whipped maple syrup is his creative spin on the traditional Southern fried chicken and waffles. Voltaggio also expands diners' minds and palates by offering a kale salad tossed lightly with burrata, Asian pear, pumpkin seeds and a yuzu (a Japanese citrus) sauce.

Other menu taste-bud-tempting items include the beef tartare that is served with horseradish snow, hearts of palm and a sea bean chimichurri. There's also a dish of Brussels sprouts, much like a side dish served for a family dinner, except Voltaggio finishes his with thinly sliced pig ears, house-cured lardo and apple.

Voltaggio also opened a culinary sandwich shop, ink.sack, in August. The menu at ink.sack offers sandwiches such as a beef tongue Reuben and the "CLT," his take on the traditional BLT (bacon, lettuce and tomato). Voltaggio's version has the lettuce and tomato but the similarity ends there. The "C" is for chicken liver mousse topped with crispy chicken skin as the bacon substitute.

Voltaggio also makes sure to tip his hat to his Maryland roots, too, by including Maryland Crab Chips on ink.sack's daily menu. Homemade deep-fried potato crisps dusted with Old Bay seasoning adds a new spin on the barbecue potato chip for resident Angelinos. This is definitely not your run-of-the mill sandwich shop.

A top chef

Sitting down with Michael Voltaggio, you begin to understand his rise to stardom amongst other culinary favorites, such as Thomas Keller or James Beard. Food enthusiasts think nothing of including his name among lists of the best. The reason?

He's becoming one of the greats himself.

"I work the line, I cook the food, I order it, I wash the dishes if I have to. I want to be in my restaurant cooking, not be the guy that is never (there)," said Voltaggio. "I want to focus, right now, my time in LA."

How does he spend his time?

Well, there's a consulting gig for a to-be-announced project in India on the agenda and don't forget about the cookbook, "Volt ink.: Recipes. Stories. Brothers.," which he's been on the road promoting with his brother, Bryan Voltaggio of Frederick. One thing is for certain; Michael Voltaggio's schedule is not for the faint of heart.

"Lately, it's been all traveling, so I really haven't had much time to have a lot of fun at all. I used to go hiking a lot. When I had time, I did things like normal people do: I'd exercise and surf, I went outside. I'd like to be able to go outside again," he said with a grin.

In the midst of his hectic schedule, there is some light though. "I do go out to eat, I ride my Harley and I like to go to shows and concerts when I can."

Voltaggio's talent and passion became properly introduced when he was as a teenager, living in Frederick, attending Gov. Thomas Johnson High School, playing football and working part time at the Holiday Inn.

"I was in school full time, going to football practice then going to work. I think out of the whole course of my day, the part I looked forward to the most was going to work, and it wasn't just because I was getting paid. It was fun. I was working on the line cooking food. I couldn't wait to get there every day."

This education helped as he began planning his restaurant after his "Top Chef" win in 2009. His brother, Bryan, placed second.

"I think Los Angeles is a city that has never been taken seriously as a food town," Voltaggio said. "Within the past five years, (we've seen) this small food community start to get bigger and bigger, and grow and grow because there is a need for it. People are interested in going out to eat in LA. Food is big, but it hasn't been as chef-driven or chef-branded."

When asked what restaurants or nightlife he likes to imbibe in when traveling home to Frederick, Voltaggio's grin widened: "Olde Towne Tavern and, of course, I'm going to always go check out Volt," his brother's flagship restaurant. (He will have to stop by LunchBox, too, Bryan's recently opened venture on Carroll Creek.)

And where does he plan to be in the next few years?

"Hopefully, still in LA, still running ink., maybe with a couple smaller restaurants around," he said thoughtfully. "I missed my 20s and most likely am going to miss my 30s, so I'd really like to enjoy my 40s."