The flight
Friday, June 2 (6 p.m., at 30,000 feet)
Will be landing in Salt Lake City shortly. Good flight so far and we'll stay on the plane between flights. Enthusiasm is high.

Lizzy's bike arrived on Thursday afternoon.

Farewells were hard this morning. Mary Ann had taken off work to see me off. My son Jeff drove Nile and I to the airport where we met the rest of the group. Nile has bought his return ticket for the 19th of June from Missoula, Mont. Doesn't look like I will be able to get him to change his committments. His daughter Julie will be having a show at the Chicago Musuem of Contemporary Art in July and he must be there. I agree wholeheartedly.

All's quiet
Saturday, June 3 (6:45 a.m. PST)
We arrived last night at Portland and were greeted by a close friend of Leona's, Brianne and her parents Tom and Chris Brynelson. Using two cars, they loaded us up and drove us 1 1/2 hours to Seaside, Ore., to their summer cottage. It was past 12:30 a.m. EST. By the time we had dinner and got settled it was 2:30 a.m. EST. No luggage lost or damaged.

Last chance for glitch in plans will occur at the bike shop later this morning.

Bikes have arrived safely. Some minor fender damage but nothing serious.

Spent some time at the beachfront monument to Lewis & Clark. Unfortunately, resort hotels surround the monument. Only good photo is the backside with the ocean background.

The afternoon was spent packing, sorting, buying food. Went to the library to try out Web mail. After some fooling with it, a successful trial was run.

Celebrated our last evening with homemade pizzas, drinks. Hoping for good weather in the morning.

We're off
Sunday, June 4 (8 p.m.)
Woke to a dark, blustery, rainy day.

Leona suggested an 8 a.m. departure with a last minute photo at the monument and a ceremonial wheel dip in the ocean; will be on the road by 9 a.m.

Our destination of Gnat Creek Campground was 43 tough grueling miles away. And this was supposed to be an easy start. Rain off and on all day. Sometimes cold, sometimes not. Did arrive at camp early, 4:30 p.m. Drizzly rain now but what a great primitive campground.

Bargaining skills
Tuesday, June 6 (7:35 a.m.)
Yesterday (Monday) was our first long day at 58 miles with two long hills. The second hill was the longest with a final 25 flat section.

Campsite is at Scapoose City Park — pleasant, shaded and with hot showers. At first it looked like the charge was going to be $12 per cyclist. After a bit of haggling and hesitating on our part, the manager allowed us to camp in the general picnic are for $15 for the group.

The ride along the river had some pleasant scenes, though traffic (logging trucks) was intimidating.  The weather improved greatly and we had a nice, sunny afternoon.

Beer and a "bear" attack
Tuesday, June 6 (4:45 p.m.)
Breakfast at small cafe in Scappoose. Eggs, bacon, toast, and a platter-size pancake. Good fresh, dark coffee; a great start. The ride is essentially flat, had to enter Portland via St. John Bridge over the Willamette River. What a thrill! We claimed our lane and had a great view. The Portland suburbs were a real treat; modest, well kept homes among some more upscale ones. Had a special treat at Peninsula Park: about a square block garden of roses! All colors, all in bloom.

As we continued along the river, past the Portland airport, a local cyclist (an environmental lawyer) steered us to a bike path away from the truck traffic. This path was just over a berm out of sight of the road. This path continued for 10 miles and gave us a marvelous view of the river and mountains.

Once past the town we started up the historic Columbia River Gorge highway. Tough climbs for about six miles on a curving single lane road, but the resulting views of the gorge were breathtaking! Mt. Hood is also easily seen to the west. Its snow-capped peak rising above the others in the Cascade Range. The ride down to river level was steep and exhilariting. In less than three miles we lost the elevation we had struggled over for the previous six miles. The waterfalls and gorge views were intermittent all the way.

Got to camp late, around 7:30 p.m. Just enough time to set up tents, eat, shower and hit the sack. Except! Nile and I stopped to ask another couple, camping close by, if they knew of a local grocery.  They didn't, but asked what we needed. After admitting that food wasn't needed, but a cold beer was, they were instantly produced. And when Liz, Beth and Leona searched us out, ice cream was served up for them! Bob and Sally were gracious hosts and we exchanged addresses. They were our first "trail angels." What a great day.

Later that same night  Beth, Leona, and Liz had a mini "bear" attack in the middle of the night. All of Leona and Beth's food was eaten while Nile and I slept sound asleep, with food in our tents.  (Camp robbers, Mr. Possum and Mr. Raccoon, ransacked the food bags of Leona and Beth)

A tough ride
Wednesday, June 7
Rode from Ainsworth State Park to Hood River to Columbia Hills State Park ... approximately 60 miles.

Crossed the Columbia, The Dalles and then rode north two miles on Rt. 197 against strong a crosswind and were almost forced to walk.

Our riding today followed the river closely. The past few days are catching up with us. The hills of the historic Columbia River Highway, although giving great views, are also a struggle. When it finally joins the newer interstate, we begin to make good time. 

Unable to cross at Hood River, we encounter a 250-foot climb up a serpentine set of switchbacks to a seven-mile closed paved trail. It's really beautiful. 

After going through two unusual short tunnels, we dropped elevation into Mosier and enjoyed ice cream with the Mayor Marc.

Back to the interstate the ride was nerve-wracking and got worse when we crossed the river again amongst traffic with the addition of very high winds.  The river below was just boiling out of the dam spill gates — great view from the bridge!

Finally at camp we are greeted by Heidi Allen, the camp host. Retired for many years, she was exuberant in applauding our arrival; calling us heroes. 

The wind in this area is just howling!  At this camp they have windbreaks and we clustered our tents up against them. The next morning at coffee with Heidi, she produced an orange and two cookies for all five of us. Another angel.

Liz learns a new trade
Thursday, June 8
The ride today is all in Washington along Rt. 14.  Although a short day, it was quite momentous for Liz. She learned to fix a flat, and her brakes. Her first attempt appeared to be successsful and so I left. 

After waiting further up the road about three miles, and no sign of her, I turned back against the wonderful tail wind that has been pushing us along. After two miles, an oncoming car flashed lights and there was Liz. A good samaritan had picked her up and was going to bring her to our camp destination, West Roosevelt Park. By the time I arrived, Liz had fixed her tire and annoying brakes and was out for a test ride.

The ride from the road to camp is only a mile and downhill, but the crosswind is so bad we walk the bikes — downhill! Wind gust meter had read 60 mph that day!

Free water!
Friday, June 9
Today we rode from West Roosevelt to a corp of engineers camp at Plymouth, Wash. Riding was great — 50 miles with a good tail wind. For the first time, Liz led the pack all the way. 

No flats and we are early into camp for once.

Highlight of the day was a train that stopped next to us. The engineer got out waved us down and handed us a 6 pack of drinking water! He got back in the locomotive and continued on.