Biking through Big Sky Country
Published on June 26, 2006

Biking through Big Sky Country

Think biking along the C&O Canal is tough, try 77 miles of winding road on U.S. Route 12 along the Clearwater River in Idaho. Photo courtesy Fredric Scire.

SLIDE SHOW: The journey continues.



Finished! The journey is over August 07, 2006
Finished! The journey is over


Coming down the homestretch August 02, 2006
Coming down the homestretch


Ready to finish July 31, 2006
Ready to finish


Sweating out the first 3,000 miles July 26, 2006
Sweating out the first 3,000 miles


Into the heat of the Plain States July 18, 2006
Into the heat of the Plain States


The halfway point July 12, 2006
The halfway point


North Dakota, here we come July 03, 2006
North Dakota, here we come


Keep on keepin' on June 29, 2006
Keep on keepin' on


Biking through Big Sky Country June 26, 2006
Biking through Big Sky Country


The journey begins (June 2-9) June 12, 2006
The journey begins (June 2-9)


We're on our way! June 02, 2006
We're on our way!


We prepare May 25, 2006
We prepare


We prepare May 25, 2006
We prepare


Editor's Note: For this section, entries were submitted by the entire group (Fred Scire, Leona Dalton, Beth Rideout, Liz Schwartz and Nile Oldham).

A relaxing ride
Saturday, June 10 (Day 7)

[Written by Beth] Spirits were high today as we took it easy. A rest day had been planned but the group decided to stay on the move but keep it to 30 miles. We left our camp in Plymouth, Wash., mid-morning and headed to the post office, finding it closed, but hoping to send our packages in Umatilla, Ore., our next town to pass through. The ride was only a couple miles to the bridge where we crossed back into Oregon state and easily located the visitor center. There, a few hours were spent typing entries for the online journal and viewing and choosing pictures to go with them. Leona and Beth attempted to ship things again with no luck. The post office window is closed on Saturday. Lunch was found at the McNary Deli where an odd bicycler offered us kittens he found on the road. Leona and Beth left ahead of the group and enjoyed a relaxed-paced ride to Madame Dorion Campground. The real campground was 4 miles down route 12 where we met Doug (the host and Vietnam vet). It was a beautiful ride along the southern shore of the Columbia River Gorge. Desert cliffs on the right and calm blue waters on the left. The bikes are pumped, tightened, cleaned, and lubed too.

First glimpse of the Rockies
Sunday, June 11 (Day 8)

[Written by Fred] We are now camped at the Lewis and Clark Trail State Park, four miles east of Waitsburg, Wash. This morning we had our first heavy dew cover. Everything left out is soaked. Fixed one of the problems with the stove. "O" ring in plunger is missing, I have a spare. Last night after sunset, a family of owls emerged from their nest in a mud hole high in a cliff above camp; loud screeching/hissing sounds all around tents as they wheel and dive in the sky. The ride today is along the Walla Walla River to the town of Lowden where we first see the foothills of the Rockies in the distance. The terrain has changed again. The arid desert clime that followed our passing the Cascade Range is now verdant rolling hills. Farming on a large scale is very obvious. Thousands of acres in potatoes, peas, asparagus, and, of course, Walla Walla sweet onions. In one area we saw over 200 windmill generators on the high hills south of US 12.

To go up ... and down
Monday, June 12 (Day 9)

[Written by Leona] This morning we woke up with a lot of dew on our tents. We packed our trailers and headed five miles into Dayton. While in Dayton, Wash., Leona, Liz, and Beth mailed some unnecessary items in order to lighten the load into the mountains. A group of cyclists from "Journey of Hope" passed us along the route and vice versa. It seemed that they would bike five miles ahead of us, stop, and then we would pass them. This leapfrog went on for about 15 or 20 miles.

We stopped for lunch in Pomeroy, Wash., where we met a very nice man who gave us hand-made pens. He owns a piece of land right outside of town so Beth and I stopped to take a picture of the giant dinosaur on his property that he was telling us about.

For the last 20 miles of the ride Beth and I rode together and stopped at a quilt store so Beth could buy fabric.

Today we rode 66 miles through sunshine and drizzle. There was one big climb up to 2,700 feet this afternoon. After the climb, we were rewarded with a 10-mile downhill to our camp at Chief Timothy State Park along the Snake River and eight miles west of the Washington-Idaho border. Fred is preparing to do the state-line dance tomorrow.

A laundromat!
Wednesday, June 14 (Day 11)

[Written by Nile] After laboring up 4,000 feet from Lewiston, Wash., yesterday only to find a cold, windy, rainy, campground, the forces of nature reversed and actually helped us today.

Less than a mile from camp, we found an inn that served eggs, sausage, coffee, and two Frisbee-sized pancakes for $4.75. Beth came closest to finishing the entire meal, plus a side of home fries.

Then a strong tailwind magically appeared to blow us along the high plateau to Greencreek. The multicolored grain and legume fields were now dotted with tall pines -- beautiful scenery.

Just as the wind turned to block our way, we were presented with a most magnificent 2,000-foot downhill. We flew into Kamiah 15 minutes later with top safe speeds reaching 30 miles per hour (frighteningly fast hauling a trailer). Liz (the Downhill Queen) recorded speeds of 40 miles per hour. In Kamiah, Idaho we dined on artichoke hearts, fried eggplant, olives, mushrooms, garlic, and Dr. Pepper.

But the forces of nature are fickle. The ride from Kamiah to Kooskia, Idaho was nasty -- no shoulder, heavy traffic, and steep drop-offs into the Clearwater River, deep and cold. And the campground marked on the map at Kooskia was seven miles in the wrong direction, so we camped in the city park pavilion with a young Brit who had only 500 miles to complete his east to west ride across the country. A local woman (Renee Lanque) brought us a big pot of homemade chicken soup, rolls and butter. But the highlight of the day was a Laundromat!

It's hard to describe how dirty and smelly you get hauling a 65-pound trailer 50 to 60 miles a day, up 2000 to 4000 vertical feet, sweating on the uphills and often freezing on the long downhills. Most of our campgrounds did not have showers or laundry facilities, so once the clean clothes were gone I wound up biking in a smelly outfit and lounging around camp and sleeping in the least obnoxious clothes. We all horded quarters for the occasional pay shower and laundromat.

Liz learns on the fly
Thursday, June 15 (Day 12)

[Written by Fred] In camp early today at about 2 p.m. Did roughly 50 miles from the town of Kooskia, Idaho. Slow, steady climb on the way to Lolo Pass. I've been concerned about Liz. She's struggling hard every day. Bike problems continue to plague her. Her trailer had a flat and she was able to fix it and get rolling again. She's come a long way from when we first started -- a complete novice biker/camper. It's been a pleasure watching her improve.

The ride today was along the Clearwater to the Locksa River. This valley in the Selway-Bitterroots Wilderness is just breathtaking. Tall pines on high slopes up away from a thundering boiling river. In my tent now the river is overwhelming. My sponge bath in the river was exciting at about 46 degrees. Got to see a number of kayakers braving the rapids.

Had a group meeting tonight. There's some concern in the group. Liz is struggling even on the easier sections. She has agreed to leave earlier in order to get to camp earlier. Getting the group to act more unified was also discussed -- no conclusions. Liz is now considering leaving early.

A tough grade
Friday, June 16 (Day 13)

[Written by Fred] A long hard day. Liz left at 6:45 a.m. and we left at 7:45 a.m. The climb continues to Locksa Lodge, our agreed rest stop. The grade has been about 3 percent but goes for 40 miles. To reach Lolo Pass, 12 more miles of increasing grade of about 6 percent was necessary. The next camp is 12 miles down from the pass. Liz agrees to get a ride to the top from our waiter at the lodge. This was a hard climb for all of us -- up to 5,200 feet. Before coasting down, Liz notices her rear tire is frayed at the rim. Since this could be very dangerous at 40 miles per hour, we replaced the tire. In the meantime, a very large moose appeared only a few hundred feet from us. Of course, as soon as we noticed it, it ran off so we have no photos.

No food in site, so we went a mile and half down the road from the camp to a restaurant for burgers. It started raining and we got soaked on the way back. We managed to build a good fire but the cold rain really dampened the mood. This is bear country so we stored our food in the bathroom.

The ride along the Locksa has been spectacular -- fast, clean mountain river, tall pines, and high mountains. Just great!

Nile bids farewell
Saturday, June 17 (Day 14)

[Written by Nile] Beth will be describing the ride today but I wanted to say something about the riders before I leave.

It's one thing to describe where you've been and what you've seen during an extended bicycle tour, but the experience also depends on group dynamics -- how various member interact and support each other. This is an unlikely group: two retired men in their 60's and three women in their early 20's. We've received more than a few raised eyebrows from camp managers and folks we've met along the way.

It took a while for our personalities to surface but after a week or so, it became obvious to me that the group could be humorously characterized by an old Elvis Presley lyric, "Hard Headed Woman, Soft Hearted Man." Let me explain ...

Hard headed women:

Leona: Wise beyond her years, cool and strong-willed, she's the strongest rider in the morning. This trip was her idea and she generally gets her way.

Beth: Fiercely independent and competitive, and ridiculously organized, she's the strongest climber. I suspect this ride is training for her rowing avocation.

Liz: Starting this trip as an amateur cyclist, never having fixed a flat or ridden more than 30 miles, Liz can now ride 60-mile days with 2,000 plus vertical feet, towing a trailer. Although she relies on Uncle Fred for most things, she definitely has a mind of her own. For Liz, every day has been a new adventure, but the mountains have taken their toll.

Soft hearted men:

Uncle Fred: A nearly perfect traveling companion, Fred is an experienced wilderness camper, strong cyclist, protective but easy and intent on keeping everyone happy. He's rarely angry and is generally smiling, and he laughs at my jokes.

Me (Nile): Very happy to have accompanied this group through a beautiful part of the country I've never seen before. I'm sorry to be leaving at Missoula, but . . . I have another life.

The final full dinner
Saturday, June 17 (Day 14)

[Written by Beth] After a night of rain at camp we packed wet tents and coasted down the hill to Lolo Hot springs (about 1 1/2 miles) for some more delicious pancakes. It was a fabulous morning ride into Lolo and Missoula, Mont.; very bright and sunny, with mountains behind and pastures ahead. We sped down 20 plus miles of downhill, then rolling highway into town where we made our first stop, the bike shop, where Nile and Liz would leave the bikes to be shipped home. Leona and Beth took some time to call home while others attended to bikes and cab calling. From there the group split up, Nile, Fred and Liz to the airport to fetch a rental car. Beth and Leona to the store and then to the KOA for the American camping experience. Hot showers much needed and much enjoyed. In the evening, we all very much enjoyed our last dinner together as a group of five. Dinner was hosted by Nile and consisted of pizza, souvenir boots, and much laughing.

Liz and Nile depart
Sunday, June 18 (Day 15)

[Written by Beth] We began early today with Nile taking Liz to the airport in Missoula, then returning to KOA for an "All you can eat pancake breakfast." Nile ordered one boiled egg and coffee. I ordered pancakes and bacon, and then more pancakes. After packing up camp Nile parted from the group, heading north to see some more of Montana as the remaining corp of Rediscovery — Fred, Leona and I — started east out of Missoula. The views of mountains and bright blue sky were stunning.  We followed the path of the Blackfoot River as it turned back and forth through valleys of pastures and meadows. Tonight we are camped in the Lincoln City park. Today's 81 miles got us all good and tired.

The peak
Sunday, June 18 (Day 15)

[Written by Beth] Today, a long 57 miles, beginning in rain, brought us from Lincoln to Augusta, Mont. The first 18 miles were a gradual climb and then a push to the continental divide. We went over Roger's Pass at 5,610 ft, our highest elevation. Then down the other side, much steeper sent us whizzing into the foothills only to find a series of nasty ups and downs for 15 miles to the closed saloon at Rt. 200 and Rt. 287. We continued on cold and wet for another 20 miles to find a bit of sun and gentler hills into Augusta, Mont.

Is it summer yet?
Monday, June 19 (Day 16)

[Written by Fred] Sign says, "Coldest Spot in US" ... In 1954 this spot recorded the lowest temperature in the Continental US: A chilly -70 degrees. At 8:05 a.m. at Lincoln, Mont., the temperature is 44 degrees. At the Continental Divide it must be nearer to freezing.

Wearing a rain suit, fleece and waterfproof socks, and working hard I am still cold! Fast downhill is spoiled by flat tires on Beth's trailer. Serious disapointment when food stop at the 37-mile mark is closed. Too windy, can't heat water for noodles, push on to Augusta, Mont. The stay in Augusta is great ... Good food at Mel's Diner, good burgers, coffee, and ice cream, smiles free. Wagons West Motel and RV Park — no keys needed, laundry, showers, warmth and hospitality. Total ride today was 57 miles, total traveled 909 miles, 16 days on the road: an average of 56.8 miles per day.

Followin' the Missouri River
Tuesday, June 20 (Day 17)

[Written by Fred] Breakfast at Mel's, eggs, hashbrowns, juice and coffee. An earlier coffee run to Mel's before others were up netted a 16-ounce coffee cup with ice cream for Beth. She kiddingly asked for it the evening before. She does love ice cream.

The ride out of Augusta was heaven. Flat and smooth with winds at our back all the way. Average speed of 15.9 miles an hour for 55 miles.

The ride followed the Sun River and ended in Great Falls, Mont. We will now be following the Missouri River to St Louis.

The mountains are only a distant shadow on the horizon. The terrain has few trees, mostly grassland. Saw a few mule deer and whitetail deer startled out of the high grass.

Today was in stark contrast to yesterday. Sun is shining and the sky goes from horizon to horizon — Big Sky, Mont., and rightly so.

At first rest stop, 20 miles out, ran into UPS driver we had chatted with at Mel's. Got to camp early, and will spend two nights here. Tomorrow we will go to Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center and the Charles Russell museum.